RAM Failure

RAM Failure

Summary: -

If you see random application crashes, kernel panics, and failures in simple programs that have worked for a long time, it is possible you are experiencing RAM failure. 

Symptoms: -

When RAM starts going bad, what you write to an address is not what you get back when you read it later. This causes random corruption of data, programs that crash, and even kernel "oops"es and kernel panics. If it's only a small amount of RAM that is corrupt then few programs will fail, but something will eventually fail when that memory gets used.

Some kernel panics may bring the system to a halt. If they reoccur soon after the system is off for a while you can be more confident it isn't a heat-related issue.

Even small programs may fail if they happen to use the affected memory. If they work once but then fail on a different attempt, this can be a sign of memory failure, since the memory used will be different from run to run.

Diagnosis:-

When a computer is turned on, it goes through what is called a POST (power-on self test) routine.  This is a short diagnostic procedure incorporated into the boot sequence by the BIOS manufacture for troubleshooting purposes. 

Many times when there is an error in your boot sequence you will receive an on-screen error message. This error was printed by the video card. But, in some cases, the error is detected early in the boot process and the error cannot be received by the video card. The problem may even be caused by the video card or the monitor.  This is why the need for beep codes came to be. If there are three short beeps when you turn on your computer, it indicates ram failure.

Once you suspect RAM is failing, I recommend using Memtest86+ (To download Memtest86+ click here Memtest86+). The easiest way to use it is find an Ubuntu CD. One of the options when booting from the CD is to run a memory test. Let it run through at least one entire test suite, such that the Pass column increases to 1. Preferably let it run overnight to get many successful runs.

Computer POST / beep codes

Computer POST / beep codes

AMI BIOS beep codes:

Below are the AMI BIOS Beep codes that can occur. However, because of the wide variety of different computer manufacturers with this BIOS, the beep codes may vary.

AWARD BIOS beep codes:

Below are Award BIOS Beep codes that can occur. However, because of the wide variety of different computer manufacturers with this BIOS, the beep codes may vary.

Different types of RAMs

Different types of RAMs

RAM : - The type of RAM doesn't matter nearly as much as how much of it you've got, but using plain old SDRAM memory today will slow you down.

There are main types of RAM: SDRAM, DDR and Rambus DRAM.

SDRAM (Synchronous DRAM): -

Almost all systems used to ship with 3.3 volt, 168-pin SDRAM DIMMs. SDRAM is not an extension of older EDO DRAM but a new type of DRAM altogether. SDRAM started out running at 66 MHz, while older fast page mode DRAM and EDO max out at 50 MHz. SDRAM is able to scale to 133 MHz (PC133) officially, and unofficially up to 180MHz or higher. As processors get faster, new generations of memory such as DDR and RDRAM are required to get proper performance.

DDR (Double Data Rate SDRAM): -

DDR basically doubles the rate of data transfer of standard SDRAM by transferring data on the up and down tick of a clock cycle. DDR memory operating at 333MHz actually operates at 166MHz * 2 (aka PC333 / PC2700) or 133MHz*2 (PC266 / PC2100). DDR is a 2.5 volt technology that uses 184 pins in its DIMMs. It is incompatible with SDRAM physically, but uses a similar parallel bus, making it easier to implement than RDRAM, which is a different technology.

Rambus DRAM (RDRAM): -

Despite it's higher price, Intel has given RDRAM it's blessing for the consumer market, and it will be the sole choice of memory for Intel's Pentium 4. RDRAM is a serial memory technology that arrived in three flavors, PC600, PC700, and PC800. PC800 RDRAM has double the maximum throughput of old PC100 SDRAM, but a higher latency. RDRAM designs with multiple channels, such as those in Pentium 4 motherboards, are currently at the top of the heap in memory throughput, especially when paired with PC1066 RDRAM memory.

DIMMs vs. RIMMs: -

DRAM comes in two major form factors: DIMMs and RIMMS.

DIMMs are 64-bit components, but if used in a motherboard with a dual-channel configuration (like with an Nvidia nForce chipset) you must pair them to get maximum performance. So far there aren't many DDR chipset that use dual-channels. Typically, if you want to add 512 MB of DIMM memory to your machine, you just pop in a 512 MB DIMM if you've got an available slot. DIMMs for SDRAM and DDR are different, and not physically compatible. SDRAM DIMMs have 168-pins and run at 3.3 volts, while DDR DIMMs have 184-pins and run at 2.5 volts.

RIMMs use only a 16-bit interface but run at higher speeds than DDR. To get maximum performance, Intel RDRAM chipsets require the use of RIMMs in pairs over a dual-channel 32-bit interface. You have to plan more when upgrading and purchasing RDRAM.

Memory Speed: -

SDRAM initially shipped at a speed of 66MHz. As memory buses got faster, it was pumped up to 100MHz, and then 133MHz. The speed grades are referred to as PC66 (unofficially), PC100 and PC133 SDRAM respectively. Some manufacturers are shipping a PC150 speed grade. However, this is an unofficial speed rating, and of little use unless you plan to overclock your system.

DDR comes in PC1600, PC2100, PC2700 and PC3200 DIMMs. A PC1600 DIMM is made up of PC200 DDR chips, while a PC2100 DIMM is made up of PC266 chips. PC2700 uses PC333 DDR chips and PC3200 uses PC400 chips that haven't gained widespread support. Go for PC2700 DDR. It is about the cost of PC2100 memory and will give you better performance.

How to upgrade RAM

 

How to upgrade RAM

What is RAM:- RAM (random access memory) is the place in a computer where the operating system, application programs, and data in current use are kept so that they can be quickly reached by the computer's processor. RAM is much faster to read from and write to than the other kinds of storage in a computer, the hard disk, floppy disk, and CD-ROM. However, the data in RAM stays there only as long as your computer is running. When you turn the computer off, RAM loses its data. When you turn your computer on again, your operating system and other files are once again loaded into RAM, usually from your hard disk.

If your computer slows down when you're working with large files or many programs at once, you might be able to improve performance by installing extra RAM (Random Access Memory - your computer's temporary operating memory). These instructions will work for the majority of machines built in the mid 1990s and later.

1). Determine what kind of RAM you need, and whether your computer has enough open slots to hold it. The new RAM should match the existing RAM's specifications and configuration.

2). Shut down the computer and leave it plugged into the surge suppressor.

3). Disconnect all peripheral devices, such as the monitor, from the computer.

4). Remove the computer cover.

5). Ground yourself to the computer with professional grounding equipment like an anti-static wristband or hold a metal part of the chassis.

6). Remove any cards or internal components necessary to give yourself unobstructed access to RAM sockets.

7). Pick up your SIMM (single in-line memory module) or DIMM (dual in-line memory module) by the ends without touching pins or chips.

8). If adding a SIMM, find the notched end and turn the SIMM so that it is parallel to the existing RAM card(s). Insert the SIMM into the socket at a 30-degree angle. If adding a DIMM, insert the DIMM straight in so that it is perpendicular to the motherboard.

9). Use slight pressure to keep a SIMM from backing out while rotating the module to an upright position perpendicular to the motherboard.

10). Make sure the small holes on each side of a SIMM fit into holders.

11). Feel or hear retaining clips lock a SIMM into the socket; close the side clips on a DIMM.

12). Gently try to pull the module out to ensure it is locked in position.

13). Replace all internal components.

14). Leave the cover off and reconnect the monitor, keyboard and mouse.

15). Turn on the computer.

16). Check the amount of RAM by right-clicking the My Computer icon in Windows and choosing Properties. On a Mac, use the About this Macintosh command in the Apple menu.

17). If you don't see the right amount of RAM, turn off the computer and try "reseating" the SIMM or DIMM (take it out and put is back in) and reboot. If that doesn't work, call a technician.

18). Shut down the computer and disconnect the peripherals again.

19). Replace the cover and reconnect all the peripherals.

Facts about Thermal grease

        
         The application of thermal grease between a CPU and its cooler is an important step in installing a CPU.

I know this process intimidates many beginners, but it is really simple. Here are some important facts you need to know about applying thermal grease.

Thermal grease application has long been the domain of hardcore computer enthusiasts. But recently, as more people build their own computers, it is becoming more commonplace.Applying thermal grease is important for cooling a CPU

1. Why Use Thermal Grease?

Do you know why we need to use thermal grease when installing CPUs on a motherboard? Well, the reason is simple. Most CPUs come with a cooler. The contact between the CPU and the cooler is not perfect. Hence, thermal grease needs to be applied to close off the contact between the CPU and the cooler.

2. Found in Many Kinds Of Packages

Thermal grease is available in many different forms. It all depends on the brand and quality of grease you are looking for.

3. Remove Original Thermal Grease

One of the most important steps to remember when applying thermal grease between your CPU and its cooler is to remove the original thermal grease. You see, the original CPU packaging may already come with some thermal grease on them. Make sure you remove it before you apply any new thermal grease.

4. Common Mistakes

There are 2 common mistakes I can think of when applying thermal grease. One of them is to apply too much. Using too much thermal grease endangers your system because it could leak out to other components and causes short circuits on the motherboard.

The other common mistake concerns processors with seals on them. When you buy a CPU, please make sure that there is no seal on it. Otherwise, when applying thermal grease, you will have a lot of difficulty.

Format a Protected Disk

 

If you have forgotten your password to the disk and want to wipe it clean, work around the protection by using your Windows registry. The Windows registry logs all of the protection on disks and can also turn them off for editing and formatting.

1). Restart your computer and hold down the "F8" key. This will take you into Windows "Advanced Boot Options." Use the arrow keys on your keyboard to navigate to the "Safe Mode" option and then press the "Enter" button.

2). Click the "Start" button and then click the "Search" bar on the menu. Type "regedit" into the "Search" box and press the "Enter" button.

3). Follow this path in the registry from the icons on the left side of the window that appears: "HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\Control\StorageDevicePolicies."

4). Click the "WriteProtect" key in the "StorageDevicePolicies" section. Change the value to "0" in the "WriteProtect" key. Click the "OK" button to save this and then restart your computer. Insert your disk into the computer's optical drive or USB port.

5). Select the "Computer" option and then right-click on your now unprotected disk. Click the "Manage" icon in the menu and click the "Disk Management" option in the next menu. Right-click on the unprotected disk and choose the "Format" option. Click the "OK" button and then select the "OK" button again. Wait for the system to prompt you when the formatting process is completed, and close the window to finish.

Color Alignment Issues on a Xerox Phaser 6360

The Xerox Phaser 6360 printerproduces high-quality color prints suitable for home and office environments. Once the printer is set up, you might experience undesirable print quality.

Test Print

Print a color test print. If the colors have halos or the lines aren't crisp, inspect the surface on which the printer sits. Move the printer to a solid, flat surface. Uneven surfaces put pressure on the print nozzles and misalign them over time.

Color Registration Page

If the color quality of a print is hazy, print a color registration page. This page will help to realign the print nozzles. From the Xerox Phaser print control panel, click "Troubleshooting," "OK," "Print Quality Problems," "OK," "Color Registration" and "OK." Follow the directions printed on the page.

Color Calibration Page

From the Xerox Phaser print control panel, click "Troubleshooting," "OK," "Print Quality Problems," "OK," "Calibrate Colors," "OK," "Tutorial Page" and "OK." The color calibration page will print out. Follow the directions printed on the page to recalibrate the 6360's color output.

Partition External Hard Drive

Partition External Hard Drive

Most of the external hard drives come with one preformatted partition ready to use. But if it didn't, or if you don't like the default setup, changing it is easy. And of course you'll want to do this before you load that disk up with data.

Start by Right clicking on My Computer and then clicking on Manage. In the resulting application window, click on Disk Management in the left hand pane. You should see something similar to this:

At the top you'll see all the logical disks on your system listed alphabetically by label by default. Below that you'll see a graphical representation of all the physical disk drives known to your system. If a physical drive has more than one partition those partitions will be shown together on the single physical drive.

In this example, my drive "E:" is an external USB drive. It happens to be my backup drive where nightly backups are stored.

Remove the Existing Partition

Let's assume for a moment that I'm unhappy with the current configuration of the partitions on my external drive and want to change it. My first step would be to remove the existing partition.

You need to right click on the drive in the lower pane, and you should see this menu:

Important: the next step will delete everything on the drive. Make sure this is what you want before proceeding.

Click on Delete Partition

The representation of the drive should change from "Healthy" to "Unallocated".

Partition the Drive

Right click on the drive again, and the option that was once "Delete Partition" is now "New Partition". Click on that to set up your new partition.

You'll then be asked to select "Primary" or "Extended" partition. Primary is sufficient unless you plan to put more than 4 partitions on this hard disk. You'll then also be asked how much of the space to allocate for the new partition you're creating.

Typically, I recommend simply allocating the entire space to a single partition. You can, if you like, allocate less than the maximum space to the partition you're creating now so that you have room for additional partitions on the same hard disk. Remember that each partition, once formatted, will appear as its own logical disk (C:, D:, E: and so on.)

You'll then be asked about formatting, which I'll cover below.

Once you've formatted the new partition, it'll appear as "Healthy", and any leftover space will continue to display "Unallocated". You can then repeat this partitioning process on that unallocated space until your entire drive has been allocated.

Format the Drive

Assuming that partitioning has been performed above, or you don't want to change the partitioning of your drive, the next thing to change would be the format of the drive.

Important: formatting a drive will delete everything on the drive. Make sure this is what you want before proceeding.

Right click on the drive that you wish to format, click on the Format item, press OK on the dire warning, and you'll get a dialog similar to this:

Let's look at each of those options:

         Volume Label - is the name that will appear when the logical disk is displayed in Windows Explorer, in File selection dialog boxes and in other situations. It's a convenient way to identify disks by name rather than only by letter. The label is an attribute of the drive, so particularly on removable drives the label stays the same no matter what machine you plug it into, or what drive letter it gets assigned.

         File System - I recommend NTFS unless the drive is going to be used by older versions of Windows, or by non-Windows systems. There's debate as to whether NTFS is faster (I think it is), but it also supports additional security features like file permissions, and can typically make more efficient use of larger disks.

         Allocation unit size - can be left at "Default".

         Perform a Quick format - for the type of format we're doing here, I actually recommend leaving this unchecked. A quick format only writes the bare minimum of information to establish the disk's new configuration. If the disk has been in use for a while, that's fine and is what I typically recommend. However, when going through the effort of formatting a new disk I suggest using this opportunity to have the format process actually write the entire drive. It may take a while.

         Enable file and folder compression - I have mixed feelings about this. The overhead of compressing and decompressing files is no longer significant with today's processor speeds. However I have concerns about data recovery if the disk ever experiences an issue. My concerns may not be valid, but ultimately, I never run with compression on any of my hard disks, preferring instead to compress the individual files as appropriate instead. So many file formats, like most audio and video files, are already compressed that the compression offered by the file system is often negligible. I leave this unchecked.

That's it. Press OK and after a period of time you'll have a formatted, ready-to-use disk.

BIOS Upgrade

 

Upgrade BIOS

Sometimes, especially when upgrading your PC, you may need to perform a BIOS upgrade in order to update your system to accept a new hardware part or to fix a bug. For the average Joe, this procedure is quite obscure. In this tutorial we will give step-by-step procedures on how to upgrade your system BIOS.

PLCC (Plastic Leaded Chip Carrier) and is used by current motherboards.

What is BIOS anyway? BIOS is a program stored inside the ROM memory of your motherboard. There are three programs stored there: BIOS, setup and POST. As they are physically stored in the same memory chip, the majority of users call setup and POST as “BIOS”, even though this is wrong, as they are three distinct programs. BIOS (Basic Input/Output System) teaches the system processor on how to deal with basic things, like how to access the hard disk drive and how to write text on screen. POST (Power On Self Test) is executed whenever you turn your PC on in order to test your system. It is in charge of that memory counting that happens every time your turn your PC on. And setup is that program that you call by pressing Del during POST (i.e., during memory counting) that is used to configure your motherboard.

So “BIOS upgrade” really means an upgrade on the programs stored on the motherboard ROM memory. Even though the procedure name is “BIOS upgrade”, you actually upgrade all three programs (BIOS, POST and setup). 

The way to update the motherboard ROM depends on the type of memory chip used in your PC. There are two types of ROM chips used in PCs, Mask-ROM (only on very old motherboards and that cannot be updated by software) and Flash-ROM (on almost all motherboards, which is able to be updated by software). In this tutorial we will cover Flash-ROM.

If you have a very old motherboard (manufactured more than 10 years ago) as shown in the figure below that uses a Mask-ROM chip BIOS upgrade is only possible by replacing the chip with a new one containing the latest BIOS version. This chip can be bought on the motherboard manufacturer's web site or at http://www.unicore.com.

DIP (Dual In-Line Package) and is used on older motherboards

You can also watch the below video for better understand the BIOS update/Upgrade.

Tools Required For a PC

Essential Tools Required While Working on a PC

Whenever you start working on a PC, you need to ensure you have the correct set of tools. So here's a short list of essential tools you need to have when working on a PC.

Philips Screwdriver

This is the most important tool for me as a computer hardware enthusiast. All computer parts are connected by screws from add-on card slots to drive bays and PC casings. Remember to get a screwdriver that does not have a magnetic tip magnetized objects inside your PC may damage some circuits.

Cable Ties

Whenever we open up an old PC, we will see mess of wires inside. Here's where the humble cable tie (also known as zip ties) came in really handy. Organize those untidy cables into bundles, route them through specific paths and tie them up. This not only improves the look, it also helps airflow.
 
Tweezers

How are tweezers useful when working with a computer? When you accidentally drop a screw into the deep, dark regions of the motherboard. Use those tweezers to reach into tight spots or for retrieving that lost screw. Tweezers are also used for removing or changing jumpers on hard drives, optical drives and the motherboard.
 
Lint Free Cloth

If you have an old computer, for sure dust would be accumulated inside that PC. This can cause lots of problems - in particular, it can clog up fans and air slots, raising the PC's temperature. Using a lint free cloth you can wipe off that dust from your case or components.
 
Grounding Strap

Static electricity can cause severe damage to electrical components in your computer. Prevent this by using a grounding strap. This is usually a Velcro strap with a metal contact to help discharge any static charge built up on your PC.

Difference between PCI, AGP and PCI-Express cards

Do you know the difference between PCI, AGP and PCI-Express?  This article is an attempt to clear up this confusion. PCI and PCI-Express are by themselves not a video interconnects, but AGP is a pure video interconnect. Understanding the difference between PCI, AGP and PCI-Express will go a long way in your understanding of computer technology in general. 

1. PCI

PCI stands for 'Peripheral Component Interconnect'. This is a connection within the system motherboard that has been used for the last ten years in the world of computing. There is a plethora of products available for PCI. These include sound cards, video cards, LAN cards and RAID controllers. The predecessor to PCI was ISA - which was one of the earlier connection types in the modern PC.

2. AGP

AGP stands for 'Accelerated Graphics Port'. It used to be that video cards were installed on the PCI bus. The problem was data transfer rate. The speed at which the PCI bus transfers data to and from the video card was too slow.

Hence, the AGP bus was launched to increase the data transfer rate of video cards. There are three specification of AGP - they are AGP 1.0, 2.0 and 3.0. The latest incantation of AGP is AGP 3.0. AGP data transfer is faster than PCI, but it is slower than PCI-Express.

The fact that AGP is a pure video interconnect (but not PCI and PCI-EXpress) is a key difference between PCI, AGP and PCI-Express.

3. PCI-Express

PCI-Express is the latest incantation of peripheral interconnections. It is destined to replace both PCI and AGP, especially in the world of video cards. More products are slated to be released that support PCI-Express. Most modern motherboards have PCI-Express built-in. The speed of PCI-Express is another key difference between PCI, AGP and PCI-Express.

How to Reduce the Noise Level in Home PC

3 Ways to reduce noise level in PC

If you have a desktop computer that operates really loudly, there are some tricks you can employ to make the computer operate more quietly.

Reasons for noise in the PC

Usually, the single noisiest component in the PC is the fan. This could be the CPU fan or another fan that is installed in the computer case to keep things cool. The other contributors to noise include the hard disk drive and DVD drive.

Replace The Fan

The first and most important way to reduce the noise level in your home PC is to replace the fan in the computer.Replace the fan attached to the computer case. You can easily buy computer fans for a cheap price and replace them. The CPU fan is something that is not recommended to touch. But if you think that the CPU fan is doing a lot of noise, you can also buy a replacement CPU fan as well.

Get A Better Processor

The another way to reduce the noise level in your home PC is to get a better processor. This might sound weird, but the truth is that when your CPU is slow, it causes lots of other components to chug along, especially the hard drive. That in turn causes heat build up, which forces fans to spin faster, creating more noise. So its better to get CPU and reduce the heat and fan noise in your PC.

Place The PC In A Cool Place

One good way to reduce the noise level in your home PC is to place the PC in a cool environment. When you do that, you reduce heat build up in the machine and prevent the fans from whirring too much to keep the PC cool. As a result, your home PC will emit less noise.

How to fix Keyboard not detected by the computer:

When you use a wired keyboard, you may experience one or more of the following problems:

• The keyboard is not detected.
• The keys on the keyboard do not work.
• Wrong characters are typed.
• The keyboard shortcuts do not work.

To work around keyboard is not detected, use the following methods

1.      Turn off your computer before troubleshooting. Verify that the keyboard is securely plugged in to your computer. Try another PS/2 or USB port if your computer has more than one, or try the connections on another computer, if applicable. If the keyboard  still doesn't work, then it may be defective and needs to be replaced.

2.      Confirm that the driver software was installed correctly by checking whether there is any error next to keyboard entry in device manager. Some keyboards, especially if they're wireless, require drivers in order to function properly. Also follow the instructions to install any software that came with the keyboard.

3.      Update the driver for your keyboard, if necessary. Open the control panel on your computer, check the hardware settings and then follow the commands to update the driver.

4.      Turn the keyboard upside down to remove any dust, debris or food crumbs. These particles can also prevent the keyboard from working properly. Clean out hard-to-reach areas of the keyboard with an air compressor or a "static-safe" vacuum cleaner.

5.      Fix the keyboard layout if the characters on screen don't match what you type. Select an input language on your computer, then choose the keyboard layout that matches that language from control panel( region and language settings)

Linksys Wireless N Home Router

Linksys Wireless N Home Router

 

With Linksys WRT150N Wireless-N Home Router, you will be able to do more than just share the Internet. Now you can stream video, share files, listen to digital music, and make Internet phone calls from anywhere in your home, with anyone - all at the same time.

The Access Point built into the Router uses the very latest wireless networking technology: Wireless-N (draft 802.11n). By overlaying the signals of multiple radios, Wireless-N's "Multiple In, Multiple Out" (MIMO) technology multiplies the effective data rate. Unlike ordinary wireless networking technologies that are confused by signal reflections, MIMO actually uses these reflections to increase the range and reduce "dead spots" in the wireless coverage area. The robust signal travels farther, maintaining wireless connections up to 3 times farther than standard Wireless-G.

With Wireless-N, the farther away you are, the more speed advantage you get. It works great with standard Wireless-G and -B equipment, but when both ends of the wireless link are Wireless-N, the router can increase the throughput even more by using twice as much radio band, yielding speeds up to 9 times as fast as standard Wireless-G. But unlike other speed-enhanced technologies, Wireless-N can dynamically enable this double-speed mode for Wireless-N devices, while still connecting to other wireless devices at their respective fastest speeds. In congested areas, the "good neighbor" mode ensures that the Router checks for other wireless devices in the area before gobbling up the radio band.

To help protect your data and privacy, the Router supports WPA2, WPA and WEP security features. It can serve as your network's DHCP Server, has a powerful SPI firewall to protect your PCs against intruders and most known Internet attacks, and supports VPN pass-through. Configuration is a snap with the web browser-based configuration utility.

Important Specifications:

Device type:

Wireless router

Wireless Network Standards:

- IEEE Draft 802.11n

- IEEE 802.11g

- IEEE 802.11b

Ports/Buttons:

- Internet: 1 10/100 RJ-45 Port

- LAN: Four 10/100 RJ-45 Switched Ports

- One Power Port

- One Reset Button

Security Features:

- Wireless Security Wi-Fi Protected Access (WPA, WPA2), WEP

- Wireless MAC Filtering

- Firewall, Internet Filter and Web filter

- Internet Access Policy

Supported VPN Pass-through Features:

- IPsec VPN Pass-through

- PPTP VPN Pass-through

- L2TP VPN Pass-through

Other Features:

- Port Forwarding

- Port Triggering

- DDNS

- DMZ

- Quality of Service